Parts for new PC (what to think about)

[randomstraw]

don't go below 16gig of ram, atlest ddr 1333

?: why? you pay 72? for 4x4 GB

 

[imdasandman]

A AMD FX 6100/6200/4100/4170/ would be terrible. Bulldozer was a massive fail and compared to other CPUs in that price range it's not very good. The only Bulldozer worth considering is the FX 8120/8150 if you plain to run tons of bots. Not great if you plain to play BF3 or something.

Edit: In WOW on High/ultra settings a ?50 dual core Intel Pentium runs better than a ?140 FX 8150 in FPS... AnandTech - Bench - CPU. So yeah, only grab the 8 core if you plain to do heavy botting

Fx chips are honestly great for like home media centers or micro pcs where you don't run a video card. But for gaming/bottling they are junk

 

[imdasandman]

don't go below 16gig of ram, atlest ddr 1333

?: why? you pay 72? for 4x4 GB

This was the point i was trying to make

 

[Pham]

if you put a 1kw PSU in that build it will definitely run, but you'll facepalm every time your electric bill lands on the mat

The electricity bill shouldnt differ much, as the 1kw PSU doesn't use all it's power either, no? If it's that big a difference, I'm sad I listened and got a 1200W PSU (Already regret it), and might have to change it. I thought the electricity use would be the same, as it never had to run full power.

 

[thetrueman2]

The electricity bill shouldnt differ much, as the 1kw PSU doesn't use all it's power either, no?

This is true, but it does not mean that the power that it draws is used efficiently. Most (read again: most, not all) PSUs hit their highest efficiency at around 80% of their maximum capacity. This means that at this 'sweet spot' (again, which can vary for PSUs) it uses the power it draws from the socket most efficiently to power the PC and not turn into heat/get lost. For example assuming your PSU hits its sweet spot at 80% it would have to draw:
- (net power/total power)*100% = Efficiency
- (????/1200W)*100% = 80% || (1200W*80)/100 = 960W

960 watts all day long to cause the least amount of energy to be lost. PSUs have a certification for this called 80 PLUS to see how efficient it is. Naturally PSUs with a higher efficiency and certification are more expensive as they will save you money on the long run. For a botting PC you want the least amount of energy to be lost, and the least amount of energy to be consumed in general (assuming ofcourse you pay your own electricity bill and not your mom or landlord). You would have to do some math yourself to see: how efficient your PSU currently is, how much you could save with a PSU with a lower output and how long the pc will have to be turned on before the new PSU cost outweighs the additional electricity cost every month.

 

[thetrueman2]

drew up a quick build for your purposes axeman. Ofcourse anyone feel free to add or remove anything if you think its unfit.

The RAM is a personal choice, as a MOBO generally has 4 memory slots. Meaning if you dunk 4x4gb in there you will have no more room to expand in the future if you want new bots or another game. for 5$ extra you can however get 2x8, leaving you with 2 open slots to plug in 8 or 16 more gb. As mentioned earlier virtually any kit will do. I personally have good experiences with corsair, and the price differences are quite small between brands so I added these kits. I chose 1600mhz, but 1333 won't hurt the overall performance. Its roughly a 10$ difference.
4x4: Click me
2x8: Click me

the harddisk is another difficult component. a SSD will undoubtedly have better performance, but is a lot more expensive per GB than a spinning disk. Also with performance degradation I'd recommend going for a high speed HDD. If you insist on a SSD a Crucial M4 or Samsung 830 series would be my pick. Good performance, reliability and (relatively speaking) price.

Barebone build; does not include a casing, DVD drive (optional if you install from a USB drive) or OS (which you can get in 'alternative ways' if you know what I mean...).
- CPU: Intel i5-2500k
Reason: Has the best performance/price ratio out there with an LGA1155 socket. period.
- MOBO: ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3
Reason: Has good performance, LGA1155 socket, not too expensive, room for expansion.
- GPU: SAPPHIRE Radeon HD 6950 2GB Edition
Reason: Good cooling system, decent performance/price ratio and 2gb ram.
- PSU: Corsair Enthusiast Series TX650
Reason: Good brand, decent efficiency for this price range.
- HDD: WD5000AAKX 500GB 7200 RPM
Reason: Nothing in particular. you just need a HDD to store.. stuff.

Total Cost on newegg for said components including (2x8gb) RAM?: 799.94$ USD (which is around.. 650(?) euros).

Optional Components; Not required, Might just give you a bit more performance if you really need it.
- HDD Cooler 1: Scythe Mugen 3 Rev. B Starting at 55$
Reason: If you can still find one, a Mugen 2 Rev. B is superior to successor. Yes, I know its stupid. Call Scythe.
- HDD Cooler 2: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - Starting at 30$
Reason: Cheaper alternative with still decent performance.
- SSD 1: Crucial M4 128 GB - Starting at 119$
Reason: Already mentioned above.
- SSD 2: Samsung 830 Series 128 GB - Starting at 144$
Reason: Amusingly enough this SSD seems to be more expensive than the crucial in the USA. It's the other way around where I live.

This setup will allow you to run 6-8 bots, possibly more depending on how you tweak it all. Hope it helps.. someone

 

[johngeorge]

pc to get

I build my own pcs been doing it for 25 years if you lived in the Us I could build you a 4000 dollar pc for about 1700 us, but you don't live here lol
Go with the amd cpus. I am a amd fan all the way have been for 25 years now. nvida graphics cards, and dominator memory. with the heat sinks right on the ram and ram cooler as well as hard drive cooler. and at least a 1300 watt power supply. and liquid cooling plus case fans.
feel free to email me [email protected] the place i get my parts does ship internationally .

So, after some fast looking into parts etc. i found that a store in my town where i buy my PC's also build their own gaming computers that are very descent. If i want an other part that are in their current setup I just need to pay the difference and they fix it for me.

the PC im gonna head for is Gamer God Zeus - Priss?nkt 1000kr! | Alina.se

instead of ASUS GeForce GTX 580 1 536 MB i will make them add AMD Radeon HD 7970
the RAM is at 8GB at the beggining so i will change it to 12 or 16GB.
1 HDMI so i can plug it into my TV.
And the last thing that im most concerned about is the PSU-effekt that are on 650W only, maybe 800-1000W would work?

the starting price is on 1630 euro and by adding the graphic card and more RAM that are really cheap it will cost 1750 euro (without 1 HDMI and more PSU). I dont know what the different value between having a PSU with 650W or one with 800-1000W.

I hopes its a good build otherwise tell me whats bad with it, you can understand the basics if you look at the website.
also if something is to pricy and a cheaper alternativ part excist let me know.

 

[Smoogel]

drew up a quick build for your purposes axeman. Ofcourse anyone feel free to add or remove anything if you think its unfit.
*snip*

Great build. I would personally grab a 3570K over the 2500K as it's almost the same price and runs 10% faster with a few extra features (such as PCIE 3.0). It also runs cooler at stock but is also more power efficient.

I have the 3570K and on low settings I can run 7-8 bots, but simular performance would be with the 2500K

I also have 8GB RAM which bottlenecks how many bots I can run more than the CPU

 

[thetrueman2]

I mainly linked the 2500k because it's cheap at the moment. The mobo is ivy-bridge compatible, so you can go either way. If the price is (more or less) the same then ofcourse go for the 3570k

I read the ivy bridge had some difficulties keeping itself cool under load though, what's your experience with that?

 

[Smoogel]

I mainly linked the 2500k because it's cheap at the moment. The mobo is ivy-bridge compatible, so you can go either way. If the price is (more or less) the same then ofcourse go for the 3570k

I read the ivy bridge had some difficulties keeping itself cool under load though, what's your experience with that?

It's caused by the cheap stuff they used for there integrated heat spreader. I normally hit 30C in idle and around 40-55C when under 100% load when using a ?15 cooler. The issue is caused when overclocking as the temperature shoots right up even under a slight OC (4GHz+ I think). Else its fine Many recommend the 2500K if one wish to overclock. Quite dissapointed how Ivy Bridge reacts to a overclock